Beaches, Volcanoes, Farms, The Caribbean & More!

The Northern Zone

High in the mountains, Zarcero is a quaint little town famous for the sculptured bushes in front of its church. The park in front of Zarcero’s church is full of shrubs that have been sculpted into the shapes of arches, animals, people and even an oxcart complete with oxen. San Ramón is another tranquil town just off the main highway between San José and the port of Puntarenas on the Pacific Coast.

San Carlos, or Ciudad Quesada as it is sometimes called, is considered the “capital” of the country’s northern zone. We know a few North Americans who own ranches in this area. Almost everything of importance is found within several blocks of the town’s main square. It has rumored that San Carlos will also be the site of a new mall with around 70 stores including, a supermarket, movies theaters, travel agencies and much more. Northwest of San Carlos is beautiful man-made Lake Arenal surrounded by rolling hills covered with pastures and patches of tropical forest. This area is fast becoming popular with foreign residents. The “very active” Arenal volcano can often be seen smoking in the distance. Lake Arenal has excellent fishing, sailing, windsurfing and other outdoor activities. There are several interesting towns in this area.

Nearby Tilarán is the home to a number of foreigners as are Nuevo Arenal and La Fortuna. The latter is a quiet town east of the volcano and good place to view its activity. The Catarata La Fortuna is a crystalline waterfall that plummets some 100 feet into a deep pool surrounded by luxuriant foliage in the mountains a few miles from La Fortuna. Some foreigners live in this around Fortuna. A hot spring and resort is located in nearby Tabacón nestled in a lush valley at the base of the picture-perfect Arenal Volcano. This is the place to soak your tired bones after a day participating in one of the many activities this area has to offer.

The Northern Pacific Zone
If you are a beach lover or warm weather person, you have chosen the right country. As you will see in the section on beaches, (Chapter 5) Costa Rica has hundreds of miles of beautiful beaches from which to choose .

Numerous breathtaking beaches all along the Pacific Coast in Guanacaste Province are suitable for homes. However, a few of the adjacent beach communities have too much tranquility for some people or have too much of a resort atmosphere for others. Playa del Coco has an active nightlife and a small North American contingent. It is set in a deep cove with consistently calm waters which make it a safe swimming beach. This charming seaside community is surrounded by emerald colored hills and offers a variety of water sports, and various forms of entertainment including restaurants, a disco, and casinos.

Flamingo has a one of the country’s two marinas and a beautiful white-sand beach. Flamingo is Guanacaste’s sport fishing capital and offers some of the best sail and marlin fishing in the world. There is an abundance of real estate including condominiums in the area and three golf courses nearby. Flamingo attracts retired expats as well people with children because of all it has to offer. The Country Day School, one of the country’s most prestigious private primary and secondary institutions, has just opened in the area. Hospital Cima of San José is opening a state-of-the-art clinic in this area.

Conchal is another beache worth checking out. Tamarindo is a laid-back beach town overlooking a long stretch of beautiful beach and a popular spot among surfers. There is a small foreign community in the area. The town itself is very cosmopolitan with residents from all over the world which adds a very exciting cultural diversity to the area. Nosara is an attractive area to live if you are a nature lover. An expatriate community flourishes there. It is not quite as built up as the other beaches on the peninsula and land prices are still reasonable. Sámara and Carrillo to the south are really worth exploring. Both beaches are good for swimming and property is still affordable since the area is not as developed as some of the beaches to the north.

Montezuma, a remote little fishing village near the tip of Nicoya Peninsula, has almost perfect beaches with clear-blue water just right for bodysurfing. There are miles of beaches and even a tropical waterfall. It is a magnet for the hip and those people interested in alternative lifestyles from all nations. In this town one can either hangout at the beach or at a local restaurant. The Sano Banano is a vegetarian restaurant where many locals and tourists congregate. There is property available in the area. Jimmy, a 45-year old retiree from Boston, told us he moved there ten years ago and bought a small home because he found living in San José to be too expensive. He gets by on around $800 or less monthly—beer included.

The Central Pacific
The Central Pacific’s largest city, Puntarenas sits on a long, narrow peninsula or spit in the Gulf of Nicoya. For many years it was the country’s main beach before the northern and other beach areas became accessible. The beach is far from being the country’s most beautiful with its black sand and murky waters. However, this doesn’t stop ticos from flocking there on weekends. There are a series of open-air bars and restaurants which dot the waterfront and add to this city’s atmosphere. Puntarenas is one of the best places to savor fresh seafood. We know a few Americans who call this port city their home.

In the Central Pacific Coast region to the south from Puntarenas there are superb locations for living. This area has something for everyone—with swimming and surfing beaches, excellent sportfishing, as well as developed and undeveloped beaches and natural parks. This area is a magnet for beach lovers due to its proximity to San José. Its attraction will increase when the new Ciudad Colón-Orotina-Caldera Highway is finished. The new highway should reduce the driving time from San José to any of the Central Pacific beaches by about an hour.

Just North of Jacó, at Bahía Herradura, is the new, upscale Los Sueños Resort. The largest full-service marina between Mexico and Chile is found here. In addition to the boat facilities, the marina will offer restaurants, bars, a supermarket, gift shop, marine supplies and concessions for jet skis, kayaks, water skiing, scuba diving, snorkeling and other recreational activities. There is also an 18-hole golf course, a 212-room palatial Marriott Hotel, home sites and condominiums for sale and a number of nature walks. Condo prices start at around $350,000.

If you like exhuberant action, good waves and partying, we recommend Jacó Beach. Since it is currently little less than two hours from San José, Jacó is a very popular weekend retreat. Be aware that Jacó is packed on most summer weekends, holidayslike Easter Week and special occasions such as surf tournaments. Boredom won’t be a factor here. There are pizza parlors, places to dance and a lot more.

The Quepos-Manuel Antonio area is one of the most beautiful beach resorts in the world. Few other places in Costa Rica offer so much in one spot. Some of the areas most prominent features are: white sand beaches, abundant wildlife, sport fishing, good nightlife, fine cuisine, unforgettable sunsets from many vantage points and even a chance to mingle with the Hollywood crowd at a 5-star hotel. The majority of foreigners live in and around the town of Quepos and along the road leading to Manuel Antonio National Park just a few kilometers south and over the hill. Despite its small size the park receives more visitors than any other park or reserve in the country. If you are a nature lover you can always explore the national park or go to one of its pristine white-sand beaches. In Quepos there are bars, eateries, a mini-bookstore, and a whole lot more to keep local expats entertained. It comes as no surprise that the area’s beauty and popularity have made real estate very expensive. Land prices start at about $75,000 an acre.

Dominical, located 42 kilometers south of Quepos, is a tiny laid-back resort town surrounded by some of the most breathtaking coastal scenery Costa Rica has to offer. The beautiful Barú River winds its way down from the surrounding mountains and empties into the sea at the north end of town. This area is reminiscent of California’s Big Sur because of its spectacular coastline and towering mountains that meet the sea. Dominical is also famous for its panoramic mountain views, excellent surfing, and jungle waterfalls. One of the area’s claims to fame is that it was used as a backdrop to shoot the 1996 Sport’s Illustrated Swimsuite issue.

Dominical is less developed than the other beaches in the central area, but this is changing quickly. Land prices are lower than the Quepos-Manuel Antonio area but are rising fast. There are a few restaurants and some limited entertainment. Much like Montezuma, this town attracts those seeking an alternative lifestyle. It is not unusual to see people practicing the oriental art of tai chi or yoga on the beach.

There are large homes with views cost in the hundreds of thousands of dollars dotting the steep hills above the beach. Many expatriates have started businesses or are buying land in the area. The Hotel Roca Verde is a good place to use as a base while you explore the area. There is a Century 21 office right in the hotel if you want to view some choice property. Their team of brokers will be hapy to bring you up to date on the local real estate scene.

Just to the south of Dominical are the Uvita and Tortuga/Ojochal areas. The highway was just paved all the way to Palmar Norte making this once virgen part of the coast very accessible. Prices are still affordable and there are plenty of mountainside homes and lots with panoramic views. We have a friend who just purchased a beautiful mountaintop home overlooking the beach. You can find out about land at the Posada Playa Tortuga Bed and Breakfast. Ask for “Gringo Mike” or his wife Karen. They are a personable couple from Detroit.

San Isidro de El General, a half-hour inland from Dominical and located along the Pan-American Highway, offers a warm climate and inexpensive housing. It is off the beaten path but some foreigners make this town their permanent home. Real estate is reasonably priced in comparison with some of the areas in the Central Valley.

The Southern Pacific Zone
This is one of Costa Rica’s least developed and remote regions. Some expatriates live around the port of Golfito, on the Golfo Dulce Bay. Sometimes called the “armpit” of the country, this drab former banana town leaves a lot to be desired. The climate can also be oppressive due to the high humidity. However, there has been a lot of new development going on recently. There are several restaurants and gringo hangouts in town. The new Free Trade Zone has revitalized this area to some extent. Many ticos make the long journey to Golfito since appliances and other items may be purchased for much less than in San José. Playa Zancudo (“mosquito” in Spanish), about 20 kilometers south of Golfito, is the home to some foreigners. There is are medium priced housing found in the area. Pavones, 40 kilometers south of Golfito, is a surfer’s mecca and renowned for having the longest left-hand breaking waves in the world. In this area numerous North Americans and foreigners own large fincas (ranches, farms) while others live in the more isolated areas around the gulf.

The Caribbean Zone
The Caribbean coast, below Puerto Limón, has many places to live. This area particularly appeals to young people who like beautiful tropical settings, surfing, reggae music, and the Afro-Caribbean culture. A large colony of foreigners from Europe and the United States live here.

The village of Cahuita, probably the most popular spot on the Atlantic coast, lies next to Cahuita National Park and has one of the best beaches in the world. Despite a rising crime rate it is still considered one of the most laid-back places anywhere in Costa Rica. Puerto Viejo, a few miles to the south, is a great area for lovers of the Caribbean lifestyle with its snorkeling and surfing. There are some lovely swimming beaches in this area and the water is crystal clear.

About nine kilometers down a dirt road are Punta Uva, with a gorgeous beach for swimming and the fishing village of Manzanillo. This area is spectacular and undeveloped—but not for long. The Caribbean coast sounds very enticing, however, the abundant year-round rainfall makes most Americans, Canadians and other foreigners choose to live on the drier west coast.

If you live in a beach or rural area, life is generally less expensive and more tranquil than in San José. People living on a small budget might consider this factor before choosing a permanent place to settle.

In this section we have tried to give an idea of the more desirable places to live in Costa Rica. Since there are so many other great areas from which to choose—it is impossible to describe all of them here—we suggest you read some of the guide books listed in the back of this book to get a better picture of what Costa Rica has to offer. Then you should plan to visit the places where you think you may want to live. The best guidebook of the bunch is Moon Publication’s “Costa Rica Handbook” by the award-winning travel writer Christopher Baker. We highly recommend this great book.

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