Is a good time to talk about some of the things ...

The Central Valley

Since we have just discussed Costa Rica’s geography and weather, now is a good time to talk about some of the things to consider before choosing a permanent place to live. Deciding where to live in Costa Rica depends on your preferences. If you like the stimulation of urban living and spring-like weather all year, you will probably be happiest living in San José or one of the adjacent smaller towns and cities in the Central Valley. As we mention later in this book, there is a plethora of activities for everyone in, around and near San José. The infrastructure is excellent and this area offers almost all of the amenities of living in the U.S.. Retirement is a big change for many people because they find themselves with more free time than usual and sometimes get bored. This should not occur if you reside in the San José area because there is a large North American community and it is always easy to find something to do.

There are a couple of drawbacks to living in San José proper. Like most cities San José is crowded, noisy and there is some pollution from buses and cars. There is also some crime in the downtown area. If you own a vehicle it is hard to find a place to keep it except for public parking lots. Despite these shortcomings we do know quite a few Americans who live in the center of town because it is convenient and there is a lot to do to stay busy.

One friend from Florida loves this area because he is right in thick of the action in the Gringo Gulch area. Another American likes to spend all day in front of the Hotel Costa Rica seated at one of the tables talking with other expats and people watching. The latter is a favorite among foreigners in the downtown area. There is another group of gringos who gather for coffee and conversation most mornings at McDonalds across from The Plaza de La Cultura and National Theater. Newcomers can make some instant friends there.

If you don’t want to live far from town, many North Americans reside around the Sabana Park. Closeby Sabana norte and Sabana sur are where many foreigners reside. Both areas are within walking distance of the Sabana and downtown. The Centro Colón movie theater, several gyms, Las Tunas Restaurant and theYoahan Supermarket are all in this area. Located at the west end of Paseo Colón, this largest of Costa Rica’s urban parks is within walking distance of San José and neighboring Rohrmoser. La Sabana was originally the site of the country’s international airport. It is now covered with tall trees, a lake jogging trails and recreational facilities. The fashionable suburb of Rohrmoser, on the west-side of Sabana Park is very popular with people who want to live in a suburban area close to San José.

Living in Rohrmoser is much like having a home near New York’s Central Park or San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park. This area has many beautiful homes of wealthy Costa Ricans and is considered very safe, since a large number of well-guarded foreign embassies are there. Home prices start at around $80,000 and rents begin at $500. When we lived there a few years ago we paid $600 for a three bedroom-three bath penthouse apartment with a panoramic view of the mountains.

Excellent supermarkets, boutiques, international restaurants, the Cemaco department store, pharmacies, bars, discos, doctor’s offices, health clubs and the modern Plaza Mayor Shopping Center are also located in and around this upscale neighborhood. For you nighthawks there is even a 24-hour mini-market thereat the Shell gas station. The U.S. Embassy is found on the west edge of this area. The only thing bad about Rohrmoser is that bus service to downtown San José is not that good, but you can always take a taxi since cabs are so affordable.

About five minutes east of downtown San José, is the residential neighborhood of Los Yoses. Many foreigners live in this area because it is only a short walk to downtown San José. The Centro Cultural Costarricense-Norteamericano is here so there are interesting activities to keep a person occupied (There is also a smaller branch in Sabana Norte next to the American Chamber of Commerce). Los Yoses boasts a bowling alley, a supermarket complex, a bookstore and many bars and restaurants. The gigantic San Pedro Mall is found on the eastern edge of this neighborhood. Barrio Escalante, slightly to the north of Los Yoses, has many older homes and stately mansions. The area provides a glimpse of how the upper crust used to live in Costa Rica. Many foreigners prefer this area since it is so close to downtown and there is some reasonably priced housing available. Prices range from about $80,000 on up. Rents start at about $300 for a small apartment

Just east of Los Yoses is San Pedro—the home of the University of Costa Rica. The campus and surrounding area resemble many U.S. college towns with its many student hangouts, restaurants, bookstores, nightspots and boutiques. You can spend the day sitting at a table at one of the many sidewalk cafes and check out the passersby. A definite bohemian-like ambience fills the air. Some interesting event or cultural activity is always happening in or around the university. During April, the annual University Week celebration takes place. This spectacle includes floats and a carnival-like atmosphere. Low-priced student apartments are available within walking distance of the university.

Another place you might consider living is Escazú—a popular suburb where many North Americans reside. Escazú is about five miles west of San José, 10 to 15 minutes driving time on the old two-lane road or new autopista, (highway). Since most of this town is located on hilly terrain, it is especially appealing to those people who like cooler temperatures. In fact, Escazú is one of the more popular places English-speaking foreigners live. Bus service is excellent to and from San José. You can catch either a micro-bus or regular bus in the park behind the church in downtown Escazú.

Despite being quaint and country-like, Escazú has all the amenities of any North American suburb: pharmacies, mini-malls, supermarkets, excellent English-speaking private schools, first-class restaurants, trendy shops, doctors, dentists, a post office and much more. You don’t have to go to San José unless you want to. There is also a beautiful private country club and golf course. Housing is plentiful, but expensive because Escazú is popular with wealthy Costa Ricans and well-to-do foreigners. Some upper-end homes cost a couple of hundred thousand to one million dollars. However, if you are living on a budget or small pension you can find more affordable housing in San Antonio de Escazú. There are many affordable tico-style homes scattered around this area. Because this area is very exclusive, home prices start at around $100,000. Rents range from $800 to $2,500 or more monthly.

Santa Ana, in the Valley of the Sun, about four miles west of Escazú, is another place where foreigners reside At one time Santa Ana was a popular weekend retreat and summer home to well-to-do Costa Ricans. Many foreigners and ordinary Costa Ricans reside in this town of 2,500 inhabitants now. You can get to Santa Ana by taking the old scenic road from Escazú through the hills or by the new highway. We recommend checking out this town. It is more rural and less developed than Escazú but there are good supermarkets and some shopping. You don’t have to go to San José for your essential products. Lately there has been a building boom in the area. Homes here are more reasonably priced than in Escazú. On the minus side, at times, bus service can be slow to San José.

Cuidad Colón, located about twenty minutes beyond Santa Ana, is the farthest western suburb of San Jose. Some foreigners live there. Beyond Ciudad Colón is the mountain town of Puriscal. The cooler mountain climate makes this town is appealing . Many people who live in Puriscal commute daily to San José since bus service is good and housing is more affordable.

The town of San Antonio de Belén, behind the airport and just a couple of miles off the main highway, is also a good spote to live. The Ojo de Agua recreational complex is in this area. Home price, rents and land are lower than Escazú and Santa Ana.

If you wish to combine an urban life and warmer weather, youcan reside in San José’s neighboring city Alajuela, which is also near the airport. This quiet city is about 20 minutes by bus from downtown San José and has everything you want in a city without the city feeling. The bus service is excellent during the day so it is easy to commute to San José if necessary. Because of the warm climate, many Americans live in Alajuela, so you can easily make new acquaintances. Try the city’s shady central park if you are looking to meet fellow expats. There are nice parks, movies, restaurants, doctors, supermarkets and more in this city so it is not necessary to go to San José often. Housing is also very reasonably priced when compared to San José and plentiful. Prices are from about $20,000 to $300,000 and rents begin at $300.

Ciudad Cariari, about 5 miles west of San José and about five minutes before the airport, is an upscale development of mostly newer homes and condos. Within this area are the Cariari Hotel and Costa Rica’s oldest golf course, the Cariari Country Club, the Los Arcos neighborhood and the American International School — one of the best English-language schools in the country. A couple of golfer friends of ours live in this area and really like living next to the golf course.

La Garita, a pleasant area west of the airport on the road to Quepos, is said to have one of the best climates in Costa Rica. An average year round temperature of 72 degrees makes it hard to beat. There are many foreigners living in this town. Some large homes come with large parcels of land. We have a friend who rented a home with a pool, a couple of acres of land and a watchman for a very reasonable price. There is also a small zoo and an excellent restaurant called La Fiesta del Maíz .

Heredia, halfway between San José and Alajuela at the foot of Poás Volcano, is also a nice city. It is only a short distance from San José by car or bus. Not as many foreign retirees live in Heredia as in Alajuela, but it is still a good place to live. The surrounding countryside is very beautiful, especially above the city. The hills overlooking the city offer some of the most spectacular views of the Central Valley. Heredia also has a university and a beautiful central park. There is a group of expats who hang out at the two restaurants on the southwest side of the park. They can be found sitting outside every morning. You’ll find it easy to strike up a conversation. You can meet colorful local characters like “Search Engine” Bill, “Uncle Joe” or “Bargain Hunter” Bruce.

San Rafael de Heredia is in the hills above the city of Heredia. The most notable feature of this area is the climate, which is considerably cooler than that in San José. Wealthy Costa Ricans and some foreigners live there. The town’s most salient feature is a huge church which may be seen from many miles away.

If you prefer living in a cooler alpine-like setting, you can find nice homes and cabins all over the pine-covered mountains surrounding the Central Valley. Los Angeles de Heredia to the north of San Rafael, is a favorite with foreigners because of its pastoral setting. The nearby areas around Monte de La Cruz and San José de La Montaña are similar but more sparsely populated and cooler because of their higher elevation. We have several friends who live near the mountain towns of Barva and Birrí.

San Isidro de Heredia is an abosulutely spectacular area to the east of Heredia. Gentle rolling verdant hills and meadows surround this Swiss-alpine like town. This area remainsgreen even during the dry season due to its cool climate. There are a lot of Americans living there. Phil form San Diego just purcahsed a huge parcel of land with an unbelieveable view of the Irazú volcano. He paid about $80,000 for the land with a farmhouse. He is presently refurbishing it and plans to build his dream home on another part of the property. Steve Brown and his Costa Rican wife Ana have also built a home in the Calle Chavez area of San Isidro.

Another neighboring city, Cartago “just over the hill” from San José, is the former capital of Costa Rica. The city lies 30 minutes to the east of San José, and became the capital after an earthquake destroyed old Cartago. Perhaps because of the cooler year-round temperatures, fewer North Americans reside there. Bus service from San José to downtown Cartago is excellent because many Costa Ricans living in Cartago work in San José. The nicest thing about Cartago is its proximity to the beautiful Orosi Valley. The valley lies about 60 minutes east of San José. Viewed from above, this Shangrala-like valley is breathtaking. The spring-like temperatures on the valley floor stay the same all year. On one end of the valley is a large man-made lake, Cachí, and a park where one can participate in many recreational activities from picnicking to water sports. The lake is fed by the famous Reventazón white-water river that runs through the Orosi Valley. We consider the Orosí Valley one of the most beautiful spots in the country and are surprised not more foreigners choose to live there.

Grecia, known as the cleanest town in Costa Rica, is also a place worth investigating. This tranquil agricultural town, about 30 miles from San José, has a beautiful central park, a church made of metal panels and an ideal climate. On Sunday evenings many residents stroll around the park just like in the days of old. The rolling hills surrouning the town are full of nice spots to live. Grecia will soon be the home of Plaza Grecia. It will house over 75 shops and be one of the first malls constructed in the region.

Nestled in the foothills at the far end of the Central Valley, picturesque town of Atenas offers scenic vistas of the valley and nearby volcanoes, a friendly, small-town atmosphere, and — according to National Geographic — the world’s best climate. For those seeking a more relaxed life style, many other small towns and fincas (farms) are scattered all over the Central Valley. These places are ideal for people who can do without the excitement found in and around large cities.

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