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Costa Rica Professional Retirement Tours by: Author Chris Howard
The People
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Besides its excellent weather and natural beauty ..
Besides its excellent weather and natural beauty, Costa Rica’s unique people are probably the country’s most important resource and one of the main factors to consider in selecting Costa Rica as a place to live or retire.
Costa Ricans proudly call themselves ticos. They affectionately and playfully use this nickname to set themselves apart from their neighbors. This practice is derived from their habit of adding the ending “tico“ to many words instead of “ito”, as done in the rest of Central America. For example, instead of saying un ratito (a little while), they say un ratico.
Foreigners who have traveled in Mexico and other parts of Central America are quick to notice the racial and political differences between Costa Ricans and their neighbors.
Costa Ricans are mostly white and of Spanish origin with a mixture of German, Italian, English and other Europeans who have settled in Costa Rica over the years. This makes Costa Ricans the most racially homogeneous of all of the Central American people. Over 90% of the population is considered white or mestizo.
Argentina and Uruguay are the only other countries in Latin America with similar racial compositions. There is also a small black population of around 2%, mainly living on the Atlantic Coast, and a handful of Indians in the mountainous areas of the Central Plateau and along the Southeastern Coast. Costa Rica has never had a large Indian population like the other countries in the region.
Politically, Costa Ricans have always been more democratic than their neighbors—especially during the last 45 years. Indeed they should be congratulated for being the only people to make democracy work in such a troubled region.
National Geographic reported several years ago that, when asked why Costa Rica isn’t plagued by political instability and wars like her neighbors, a Costa Rican replied, in typical Costa Rican humor, or vacilón, “We are too busy making love and have no time for wars or revolutions.”
Because they have the largest middle class of any of the Central American nations, Costa Ricans love to boast they have a classless society. Most people share the middle class mindset and tend to be more upwardly mobile than in other countries of the region.
Although there is some poverty, most Costa Ricans are well to do when compared to the many destitute people found in neighboring countries.
Another thing setting Costa Ricans apart from other countries in the region is the cleanliness of its people. Costa Ricans take pride in their personal appearance. The people here are very style-conscious. We know a tico of modest means who dresses so well; he is often mistaken for a millionaire. Men, women and children seem to be well dressed. Above all, you don’t see as many ragged beggars and panhandlers as in Mexico and many other Latin American countries.
Costa Ricans are healthy people and have a longevity rate on a par with most first-world countries— 77.49. In fact, they have the highest life expectancy in all of Latin America and just about the same as the U.S. This is primarily due to the country’s excellent Social Security System that provides “cradle-to-grave”health care.
The people of Costa Rica place great emphasis on education. Education has been compulsory in Costa Rica since 1869, and the federal government currently spends about 20 percent of it’s budget on education. Costa Rica’s 95 percent literacy is among the highest in all of Latin America. A higher percentage of the population is enrolled in universities than in any other country in Latin America.
Costa Ricans are friendly and outgoing and will often go out of their way to help you even if you don’t speak Spanish. They are also very pro-American and love anything American—music, TV, fashion and U.S. culture in general. Because of these close ties to the U.S. and just the right amount of American influence, Costa Ricans tend to be more like North Americans than any other people in Latin America.
Surprisingly, they—especially the young people of the country—seem to have more liberal attitudes in some areas. Costa Rican women are considered to be some of the most sexually liberated females in Latin America. This way of thinking can be due in part to the fact that the Catholic Church seems to have less of a foothold in Costa Rica than in some other Latin American countries.
However, you should not get the wrong idea from reading this. The vast majority of the people are Catholic and can be conservative when it comes to such issues as movie censorship. Also, Costa Ricans don’t miss the chance to celebrate the many religious holidays that occur throughout the year.
Generally speaking, the people of Costa Rica love to have fun, like to live with “gusto” and know how to enjoy themselves. One has only to go to any local dance hall on a weekend night to see ticos out having a good time, or observe entire families picnicking together on any given Sunday—the traditional family day in Costa Rica.
The people of Costa Rica, no matter what their station in life, seem to enjoy themselves with less and do not give as much importance to materialism as do North Americans. Even people who can’t afford to, seem to be able to eat, drink, be merry and live for today.
Recent polls indicate that the majority of Costa Ricans are happy with their quality of life. Out of 162 countries polled, Costa Rica was in the top 40 when it comes to quality of life. More and more job opportunities, the accessibility to education and a state-run health care system are cited as the prime reasons for the country’s excellent quality of life.
Basic old-fashioned family values and unity are very important to Costa Ricans. Just as in the rest of Latin America, a strong family unit seems to be the most important element in Costa Rican lives. Social life still centers around the home. Much of one’s leisure time is usually spent with family. Mother’s Day is one of the most important holidays. Parents and relatives go to almost any length to spoil and baby their children. Elderly family members are revered and generally treated better than their counterparts in the U.S. or Canada. Most are not sent to nursing homes as in the U.S. Young, adult, singles, especially women, tend to live with their families until they marry.
Costa Rican families will help each other through hard economic times and in the face of poverty. Some foreigners complain that it is difficult to develop deep friendships with Costa Ricans because the family unit is so strong and predominant. Nepotism, or using relatives and family connections to get ahead is the way things work in business and government in Costa Rica. In many instances it doesn’t matter what your qualifications are but who your family knows that helps you.
Despite all their admirable qualities, there is a negative side to the character of the Costa Rican people. While similar to North Americans in many ways and with a fondness for some aspects of gringo culture, Costa Ricans are distinctly Latin in their temperament. They suffer from many of the same problems endemic to all Latin American societies.
Corruption and bribery are a way of life; bureaucratic ineptitude and red-tape thrive; the concepts of punctuality and logical reasoning are almost non-existent by North American standards, and the “Mañana Syndrome”—of leaving for tomorrow what can be done today—seems to be the norm rather than the exception.
Unfortunately, as in most Latin American countries, machismo (manliness) is prevalent to some degree among Costa Rican males. Machismo is the belief in the natural superiority of men in all fields of endeavor. It becomes the obsession and constant preoccupation of many Latin men to demonstrate they are macho in a variety of ways.
Fortunately, the Costa Rican version of machismo is much milder than the type found in Mexico but it nevertheless exists. There is no telling to what lengths some men will go in order to demonstrate their virility. A man’s virility is measured by the number of seductions or conquistas he makes. It is not unusual for married men to have a querida or lover. Many even have children with their mistresses. Since many married men don’t want to risk having a lover, they sleep with prostitutes or loose women called zorras. For this reason many Costa Rican women prefer American men to Costa Rican men.
As the Costa Rican women say, “Costa Rican men are machista and always have to prove it. You marry a Costa Rican man today and tomorrow he is out chasing other women and drinking! Costa Rica is said to have the highest rate of alcoholism in Central America - an estimated 20% of the population are problem drinkers. This should come as no surprise, since drinking is part of the macho mentality. Making love, drinking and flirting are the national pastimes of most Costa Rican men.
Foreign women walking along the street will be alarmed by the flirtatious behavior and outrageous comments of some Costa Rican men. Many of these flirtations or piropos, as they are called in Spanish, may border on the obscene but are usually harmless forms of flattery to get a female’s attention . Foreign women are wise to ignore this and any other manifestations of Costa Rican men’s efforts to prove their manliness or machismo.
Sadly, many Costa Ricans have misconceptions about North Americans’ wealth. A few people seem to think that all Americans and Canadians are millionaires. It is easy to understand why many ticos think this way because of the heavy influence of the U.S. television and movies that depict North Americans as being very affluent. Also, the only contact many Costa Ricans have with Americans is primarily with tourists, who are usually living high on the hog and spending freely while on vacation.
It is therefore not surprising that some individuals will try to take advantage of foreigners by overcharging them for services and goods. Others will use very persuasive means to borrow amounts of money ranging from pocket change to larger sums of money and have no intention of ever paying the debt. Please, take our advice: don’t lend money to anyone, however convincing their sob story.
Another thing to be wary about is the “regálame mindset” of a few Costa Ricans. Basically this term comes from the Spanish verb, regalar, which means to give something as a gift with no intention of repayment. The verb, dar, is the correct verb to use when requesting something. People here use regalar in a figurative way in everyday conversation when asking for everything from small items in stores to ordering a beer in a bar.
Unfortunately, too many people take this verb literally and expect something for nothing. We know of many instances where foreigners have been overly generous to locals. As long as they continued their altruistic ways they were liked. Once they got wise or decided to curtail their generosity, they were considered cheapskates. The bottom line is not to be too generous or spoil people here. Some people will take advantage of your generosity and misunderstandings inevitably will arise.
There have cases of foreigners, who have married Costa Rican women, been “taken to the cleaners.” Because family ties are so strong in Costa Rica, you can end up supporting your spouse’s whole family. We talked to one retired American who couldn’t live on his two thousand dollar a month pension because he had to support not only his wife and stepchildren, but his wife’s sister’s children as well. Furthermore, he had to lend his father-in-law money to pay off a second mortgage because the bank was going to repossess the latter’s house.
This is an extreme example, but we have heard many similar stories while living in Costa Rica. Not all Costa Rican families are like this one. When doing any business with Costa Ricans, you should exercise extreme caution. A few years ago we had the pleasure of dining with a prominent Costa Rican banker who is presently the country’s Ministers of the Interior. We mentioned that we wanted to start a business in Costa Rica. He replied, “Be very careful when doing business with Costa Ricans. This is not to say that all people are dishonest here. Just be cautious who you deal with.”
We suggest that you don’t dwell on these negatives and hope you realize how difficult it is to generalize about or stereotype any group of people. After you have resided in Costa Rica and experienced living with the people, you will be able to make your own judgements.
The good qualities of the Costa Rican people far outweigh any shortcomings they may have. To help you understand the Costa Rican people better, we suggest you read the book The Costa Ricans, listed in the “Suggested Reading” section of this book.
Our Adventure in Paradise Oh that’s far too beautiful to be real, I muttered to myself, while examining the photographs in Christopher Howard’s latest book. "These photos can't be real, I’m sure,” I commented cynically. It was October, a comfortable autumn day. But the days were getting shorter and the nights colder. Cold, windy, bleak, winter days were just around the corner. Summer and fall are enjoyable seasons in northeast Ohio. And then there’s winter...my thoughts drifted to the ice storm of 1991. Downed trees and powerlines closed many roads. Driving was trecherous. Stores were closed, schools too, and cable TV was out. “How would you like to see Costa Rica?” my husband Jim’s question interrupted my thoughts. “Christopher Howard is leading a tour in January,” Jim remarked. “Do you think you could get time off? “What are Costa Rica winters like?” I asked. “January is their summer, and in the Central Valley it’s 72 degrees year round,” he replied. “If you like it we could live there comfortably on my pension. You wouldn’t have to work, it would be optional.” “Even with the two children,” I asked. “Yes,” was his reply.
We departed from Cleveland and had an enjoyable, uneventful flight to San José. Jim and I were weary of customs, but it proved to be easier than car trips to Canada. Costa Rican warmth and hospitality were immediately evident; we felt welcome. Someone from the tour company was expected to meet us, but we were flattered and amazed this it was Christopher Howard! Our Costa Rica adventure had begun.
On the way to our hotel Chris helped us get our bearings and was more than willing to answer our many questions. I was immediately struck by the absolute beauty of the country. Such contrasts! It is even more beautiful that the photographs.
The Hotel Presidente was convenient and comfortable. The location was perfect for touring the city on our own. Meals were delicious and reasonable, and in close proximity to numerous “sodas” (small cafés), souvenir shops, a museum, the Central Market and casinos. Hotel security watched over us. We were able to mail our postcards and exchange money at the hotel. They also gave directions and called taxis for us. Imagine that at a Holiday Inn. The streets felt safe too, unlike big cities in the States.
The Irazú Volcano Tour and trip afterwards around the lake in the beautiful Orosi Valley had to be seen to be believed. The morning excusion to the CoffeeBritt plantation in Heredia to see how coffee is grown and processed was very educational.
We were especially enthralled by our catamaran boat ride to Tortuga Island. We lunched on the island with an iguana, saw a school of playful dolphins jump next to our boat. and marvelled at Costa Rica’s spectacular scenery.
We also loved the Banco de Mariscos restaurant in Heredia. It is touted as the best seafood restaurant in the country. Their dishes are absolutely delicious and a bargain. Tiny’s American Sports bar was great fun. We had a group luncheon there and enjoyed hamburgers and fries Costa Rica style.
The lectures and seminars were helpful and informative, especially the representative from the Residents Association of Costa Rica. We have been in touch with several speakers from the tour since our return to the States. Without Chris, we would have never met the realtors, movers, a business consultant, attorneys and other contacts.
The Clinica Bíblica Hospital offers great medical care. Not wanting to miss any of the tour, I saw a doctor there for a minor problem. The doctors and nurses speak great English. Bedside manner far exceeds what I’m accustomed to. The wait was short, care great and fee minimal.
When we departed paradise, our flight from New Jersey was cancelled due to the weather. The next flight was delayed for hours while all planes de-iced. Both at the airport and at home we shoveled snow. Sniff, sniff, good-bye for now, paradise.
Update: We are now in the process of selling our two homes in the States and plan to move with the kids to Costa Rica before the new millennium. It came down to a choice between Costa Rica and Florida and the former won out easily. Florida’s sweltering summers cannot compete with Costa Rica’s spring-like climate.
One View of Living in Costa Rica Costa Rica is, quite naturally, very Latin. The Ticos are fatalistic and live for the moment. They have extended families which often supply most of their social life. By and large they are a happy people, accepting their lot in life and finding a bright side to dark issues. Music and laughter are common sounds everywhere. For me, these are the positives.
Ticos do things that amuse rather than irritate me, such as shoot off fireworks to celebrate a Virgin’s Day. Do virgins like fireworks? On the negative side, I must tolerate what appears to be a total lack of planning. Things happen when they happen no matter what promise has been made. It is not a place where”to do” lists get done. Long lines are common in banks, telephone offices or almost everywhere.
Costa Rica is caught between the old world where oxen still pull carretas (carts) and the new world of TV and computers. Because of this, there is apt to be confusion about what North America is like, and problems with computers that don’t compute because there is a lack of training of the user.
Ticos seem to have a love-hate relationship with the U.S. They want to be like it, but resent it at the same time. This sometimes produces jaded dealings with Gringos, i.e.: special prices for blue eyes. But it doesn’t happen all of the time and sometimes they cheat each other too. I am a guest in their country and don’t try to tell them how to run it.
Since I used to live in Michigan, I find the climate in Costa Rica perfect. It’s the same all year round. The sun shines daily and the rain keeps everything green. The countryside is outrageously beautiful .
Ticos are paranoid about crime and all houses in the cities have bars. Yes there is crime here, but I feel safer here than I did in Detroit. Driving here can be a nightmare. This combined with some bad roads can ruin your day. Buses are cheap and go everywhere.
The cost of living is low if you don’t buy a lot of imported stuff. A three-bedroom house can be rented for under $500 in some areas like Heredia. Utilities are a bargain. Food is cheap. Fruits and vegetables are almost free. However, appliances cost almost double. Books are expensive, so bring reference books. Cars are twice the cost to buy or bring in. Group health insurance costs around $600 a year per person.
Spanish is important. It allows you to make many friends. I have been living here four years and never dream of returning to the States. But that’s me. To know how it is for you, you’ll have to try it.
Retirement in Costa Rica There is a great deal of interest in retirement in Costa Rica, and it grows yearly. Would we like to retire in Costa Rica? Sure we’d like to settle down on a secluded farm just outside of San José, Costa Rica, and relax for the rest of our lives, but we’re not quite ready for that. Only time will tell.
We’ve encountered numbers of retirees during our Costa Rica travels. They all have one thing in common: they fell in love with the country and wanted to spend their remaining “good” years enjoying the weather, natural beauty and friendliness of the people.
Former San Diego dentist, Chuck Miller, entertained us in his home at Tango Mar Resort at the base of the Nicoya Peninsula. His penchant for creativity is being fulfilled through active projects such as building two homes, landscaping them, then designing and constructing the furniture, cabinets,etc. The monkeys are his neighbors, while the beautiful flowers he cultivates in his environment enhance the jungle.
Toni and Dan Daniel originally discovered Costa Rica 38 years ago. Their demanding and active lifestyle in Sacramento, California, provided sufficient funds for travel, but they needed more time to themselves. After 12 years of “visits only” the Daniels returned to Costa Rica for a permanent stay. It was a big step, but one they’ve never regetted.
Their three-bedroom home is on a secludeded section of land overlooking Lake Arenal, the largest lake in Costa Rica. They enjoy the peace and quiet and the guapote bass fishing in the summer, while Arenal Volcano’s bursts of life add mystique to the adjacent countryside.
I’m sure retirement anywhere in the world isn’t perfect, including our own back yard. But each person must decide what they are looking for, and the best way to find it is to spend time researching.
If you can afford it, visit several areas—there is no one area of Costa Rica where retirees congregate. Meet with others who live there. Ask how and why other retirees enjoy the lifestyle. Get acquainted with your potential neighbors, as well as yourself. Learn the language. Join organizations. Keep active. Give of your time to others. Take the hand of friendship that is offered—that’s easy in Costa Rica. Maintain an attitude of openess. Become part of your new world and give something back to the country, the people and the land. You’ll have a richer and fuller life.
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