Overwhelmed with what I have seen.!
In the years I have visited and lived in Costa Rica, I have always heard many stories about Tortuguero and how wonderful it is. In fact we always tell friends and others that even if they only have a couple of weeks, Tortuguero is a must-do, and they always come back overwhelmed with what they have seen. Of course it has always been hard to actually get around to going, and in fact my wife, who is Costa Rican and heard stories all her life, had never been either. So it was that we finally visited this year, and we too were blown away! In fact I feel of all the places I have been, Tortuguero is the one place I found that is truly indescribable, and maybe impossible to do justice to in my simple words, but I will do my best.
Mawamba !
So it was that in March we found ourselves on the bus at 6am, on what started like any other tour. Our guide from Mawamba, who would be with us our entire trip, explained highlights as we passed them in San Jose and enroute. Within a few hours we reached the lowlands to the East, and stopped for a decent breakfast before turning off into the Banana Plantations and small towns between and the canals of Tortuguero.
Tortuguero Park !
By about 11am we found ourselves at Mawamba's entrance to the Canals, and soon as we sped along in one of the Canal boats, it was explained how the canals consisted of a variety of natural and man made channels, which originally were used to transport logs. Apparently the Coastal waters can get so rough that the canals were designed as a safer method of transporting the floating trees, and fewer were lost this way. In just 2 hours we would arrive to Tortuguero Park's entrance and our hotel for lunch.
Easy access to the canal !
I don't want to dwell on the accommodations, but the rooms and meals were great, and to our thinking the Mawamba lodge is the most perfectly suited of all the hotels. It is located on the Ocean side of the canal, and so you have easy access to the canal & parks, the beach and turtles, and the small town is a mere 5-minute walk away. (The other hotels are located on the far side of the canal, which seems to leave one at the mercy of a boat)
That evening we walked into town for a look. It is amazing as this tiny village has survived for ages, and with no road access of any kind. It is apparent that they currently survive well on a diet of tourist income, and many of the small dwellings boast a shop of one kind or other. Originally they were apparently fishermen, and also harvested Turtle eggs, but this is no longer the case thanks to one man and his vision.
Dr. Archie Carr !
It was Dr. Archie Carr that brought the importance of Tortuguero (translated as Region of Turtles) to the rest of the world, largely in part to his book, The Windward Road, in 1956. It was also thanks to his work that the endangerment of the green turtle was discovered, and that the Caribbean Conservation Corporation (CCC) was founded. This group works to help educate, study, protect, and track the green turtles, and it is now known that Tortuguero is the most important nesting site for this species in the Western Hemisphere. Along with their assistance the government of Costa Rica declared it a National Park in 1970. Nowadays the group also studies the Leatherbacks that arrive to the beach here, along with hawksbill and loggerhead turtles that also nest. Visitors to the research center (located near the village) can find out much more about habitat and even visit the beach during the right times of year to see the turtles. In fact a great part of the CCC's program was to convince the locals of Tortuguero that Eco-tourism would pay off for a lot longer than harvesting the turtles for the market. The green turtle in particular has made a great comeback, as it is thought to have been very close to extinction in 1960.
I can vouch that one of the most amazing sights in nature is the struggle of a great Leatherback turtle to make her way up the beach, with a body created for the ocean, to nest. This magnificent creature, weighing up to 2000 lbs, must spend hours making her way to her chosen spot, digging a deep hole with great effort and stress, then lay and bury her eggs before struggling back to the open ocean. She will never even see her offspring, many of whom may not even survive the dangers just between the nest and the shore. (More can be found on the CCC and nesting dates can be obtained from their website at http://www.cccturtle.org)
19,000 hectares (46,900 acres) of Protected Park !
However, if you happen to visit Tortuguero during the non-nesting season, don't despair. Tortuguero boasts abundant wildlife throughout the vast canals and jungles. In fact 19,000 hectares (46,900 acres) of protected park are now encompased, along with 22 miles of nesting beach, so bring good shoes. Or if you're not a hiker, not important. You can stick with the boats and see miles and miles of wild terrain from the comfort of your own seat. More than 300 birds are known to live in Tortugero for all or part of the year, and there are also 57 species of amphibians, 111 species of reptiles, and 60 species of mammals. The park itself is a beautiful area with its own unique charm, and I mean very unique! As we wound our way through the canals, dozens of animals could be seen, especially with the help of our guides. In fact entirely to the guides, who could spot a green lizard in the darkest part of the shore at 300 yards (probably even at night!) We were able to see three of the different species of monkeys, and literally dozens of birds. Add to that lizards, snakes, frogs, caiman, and crocodiles, and you have a real menagerie of true, wild animals that would take anyone's breath away.
A huge variety of vegetation !
The park itself is in fact located on an alluvial floodplain, with occasional volcanic hills protruding upwards, and also boasts a huge variety of vegetation. The canopy of some trees can reach over 60 meters above your head. In fact the area has the highest diversity of both animals and vegetation in all Costa Rica. Even in between sitings, just floating along the canals in this tropical paradise, and listening to the sounds emitting from the jungle, puts you in awe of the greatness of this magical place. I want to visit many places, both in Costa Rica and abroad, but I will definitely return to Tortuguero as well.
In fact though, I think the best part of our trip really sunk in as we headed back to San Jose on Sunday. We had the pleasure of travelling with a family from England, including a number of young children, who on the journey home worked with the guide to find just how many species we had encountered. Would you believe SEVENTY-TWO? IN ONE DAY? Not only was the entire experience incredible, much more than any other place I have yet visited in the world, but it is a literal gold mine of wildlife. I can without any hesitation recommend Tortuguero as one of the most amazing places on Earth created by Mother Nature.
© El Residente
ARCR Administración S.A.
San José, Costa Rica
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