H ow do waterfalls, thermal springs and mineral mud pits within a national forest sound? Even better is that fact that it’s only about a twohour drive to the beach!

O nce you come to the Inter-American Highway, your choice is to proceed north to Liberia and the coast, or drive south through Cañas and backtrack up to Monteverde. If you choose, there is also a gravel road shortcut from Tilarán to Monteverde, bumpy and rough but passable with four-wheel-drive. A public bus follows the same route. If you go this way you’ll pass El Trapiche, an old-fashioned sugar mill. The route is “iffy” during the rainy season, so ask first.