Five minutes east of town is the well-run Mundo de las Serpientes, World of Snakes ( 506/494-3700), in the village of Poró. Admission to this interesting stop is about US $12. Northwest of town is Los Trapiches ( 506/444-6656), a factory that makes tapa dulce, sweet hard brown sugar. A waterwheel drives a 19th-century Scottish cane press that squeezes out the sugar juice. The juice is collected and boiled, then poured into molds. Open weekends. There’s swimming too, and you can bring a picnic or eat Tico food in their restaurant.

Stay in Grecia at the pleasant small, B&B Aeromundo (one block behind the church, . 506/494-0094, aerotess@racsa.co.cr, $-$$), they offer local tours and run a travel agency. Six well-equipped rooms and three furnished apartments.

Tr, on the way in, turn right after two km/1.25 miles to the tiny town of Rincón de Salas. Turn right at the intersection and go 200 meters / 658 feet to the Posada Mimosa ( fax 506 / 494-5868, www.mimosa.co.cr, $$). This immaculate B&B home features beautiful gardens and a protected rainforest as part of the property.